Shoestrings, bootlaces, or shoelaces; whatever you call them, your laced shoes need them! Aside from keeping your footwear secured and comfortable, picking the right type of lace and lacing style will elevate the look of your shoes to new levels.
Why Do Shoelaces Matter?
Perhaps the easiest way to change the look and feel of your shoes is to simply change your shoelaces. Whether you want the subtle difference from round to flat laces, to spice things up with a different color, or freshen things with a brand new pair that replaces the old laces, it’s incredible how much of a (positive) disproportionate effect your shoelaces have.
Want to change the look of your shoes with shoelaces?
Regardless of how you choose to make this simple but effective style adjustment, the advantages of paying attention to your shoelaces are simple: quick, easy, inexpensive, and reversible
- It’s a reversible choice. Unlike an expensive patina, you can simply change the laces if you don’t like them.
- It’s an inexpensive choice. With shoelaces being the least expensive part of your dress shoes, you can afford to pick up a few pairs to experiment with and have them on hand as spares.
- It’s a quick and easy choice. No waiting for polishes to set, or artisans to craft something for you, simply take a couple of minutes to change your laces as and when you need to.
Lace & Tie Dress Shoes: Video Guide
To begin with, you may find lacing your shoes to be a fiddly endeavor. Raphael is on hand to guide you through the various steps of the process in our handy video guide.
Lacing Dress Shoes: Straight Bar Lacing
Of all the shoe lacing methods, we’ve found that straight bar lacing works best for casual to formal shoes. It works on open-lace styles (like Derbies) as well as closed-lace styles (such as Oxfords), as the parallel “bars” that are formed by the laces lend a smart, neater-looking result than criss-cross lacing or diagonal lacing does. You’ll even find that a pair of leather dress sneakers benefits from this method of lacing, too!
Straight Bar Lacing
Step 1
Insert both ends of the shoelace in the bottom holes (eyelets), closest to the shoe’s vamp. You’re looking for a line that is horizontal and on top of this part of the shoe.
Step 2
Pull the laces up from the underside so both sides of the lace are roughly equal if you have an even number of eyelet pairs, but ensure you have about 2 inches more on either the right or left side of the lace if your shoes have an odd number of eyelet pairs.
Step 3
If you have an even number of eyelet pairs, you can start with either side of the laces, but if you have an odd number of eyelet pairs, then start with the longer side. From the underside, pull the lace up through the second eyelets on the same side, and feed it through the adjacent hole on the opposite side.
Step 4
Now, take the other side of the shoelace. From the underside, pull it through the third eyelet on the same side, across the top of the shoe, and back through the third hole on the opposite side from the top.
Step 5
Repeat step 3 and 4, alternating between left and right hand sides until you reach the pair of eyelets at the top. If you have an odd number of eyelet pairs, cross the longer lace diagonally underneath and up through the last eyelet on the opposite side. This is why you needed one side to be longer at the start.
Step 6
Pull on your laces to adjust and tighten them to your liking. Remember, if your Oxford shoes are brand new, it’s natural if the laces don’t close fully at first.
In case you need additional guidance, take a look at the visual we created to help. Although it might seem a little tricky at first, you’ll be surprised by how easily the straight bar lacing method comes to you. And, as always, practice makes perfect!
How Do You Tie Men’s Dress Shoes? The Easiest Method
Now that you’ve laced your shoes, it’s time to tie them! Chances are, you were taught the same method that seems to be the most popular: the “bunny ear” knot. The problem with this knot is that it creates a bow that sits crooked to your neat straight-bar lacing, looking unkempt and becoming loose throughout the day. Instead of this method, you’ll want to use the “magic” knot.
The “Magic” Knot
Step 1
Tighten your laces to fit and create a half knot with them at the top of your shoes.
Step 2
Create a loop with the right side of the lace and pinch it at the base, on top of the half knot you just created. Of course, you can also do this step with the left hand side if it feels more comfortable, simply remember to invert either left or right lace in the following steps.
Step 3
Take the left lace and pull it toward your toe, under your fingers currently pinching the other (looped) lace.
Step 4
Bring the left lace up and over the bunny ear loop toward your shoe’s tongue. Repeat this action once more to create the Parisian knot.
Step 5
Push the left lace through the loop you’ve just created at the base where you’re pinching the right lace. Your aim should be to push the lace through so it creates a loop in the left lace. This step can be fiddly, so practice makes perfect!
Step 6
Tighten the knot by pulling evenly on both bunny ear loops. You can make adjustments by gently pulling on the end of the laces to reduce the tension and size of the looped laces. Remember that this action will also undo your shoelaces when you want to take them off.
Advanced knot:
Berluti Knot
A much-prized type of shoelace knot is the so-called “Berluti” knot. This is an advanced method that results in a symmetrical knot that lays flat across the top of the shoe. It gets its name from the designer Olga Berluti who was apparently inspired by the Duke of Windsor who was known for his symmetrical tie knots.
Lacing & Tying Oxford Shoes FAQs
How do you tie men’s dress shoes?
There are many methods to tie the laces on a pair of dress shoes, but the easiest way is a variation on the “bunny ear” method which is sometimes called “the magic knot”. In this method, you bring the second lace under the first loop instead of over it. This results in a flat, horizontal knot that isn’t likely to come undone during the day.
Do you tuck dress shoelaces?
While it may be popular for sneaker laces to be tucked in, it’s not advised to tuck in your dress shoe laces. instead, tie them in an elegant knot and allow them to sit on top of your shoes for a classic look.
How do you tie your shoes in a stylish way?
While “the magic knot” is the easiest way to secure your dress shoe laces, there are a few more methods that create different and intriguing looks. For example, you can try either the Parisian knot or the Berluti knot to see which method you prefer.
How should shoe laces be laced?
If there’s only one method of lacing your shoes you need to know, make it the straight-bar lacing method. The results are a set of parallel “bars” that are made by your laces, which looks great on all shoe types from formal Oxfords to casual dress sneakers.
Should laces be tight or loose?
Ideally, your dress shoe laces should be tight enough that your feet stay locked into your shoes, but not so tight that they cut off your circulation or cause discomfort.
How do you tie dress shoes so they don’t come untied?
There are several shoelace knot methods to ensure a firm hold throughout the day. Instead of a chunky double knot, try either the magic knot, the Parisian knot, or the Berluti knot.
Should I straight or criss-cross my laces?
Traditionally speaking, criss-cross lacing was reserved for casual country boots and shoes, and straight-bar lacing was for formal city shoes. Nowadays, either method could be used for your shoes, but the straight-bar lacing looks best across the board.
How do you lace Oxford dress shoes?
Oxford shoes benefit from a neat lacing style, as they are inherently formal shoes. Therefore, when lacing your Oxford shoes, ensure you use the straight-bar lacing method.
How do you tie Oxford shoes?
As Oxford shoes are a formal style of dress shoe, you’ll need to tie them in a knot that complements the look. Aim for a knot that is not chunky, but instead small, flat, and horizontal to be in line with the straight-bar lacing. The “magic” knot, the Parisian knot, and the Berluti knot are all methods of tying your Oxford shoelaces that present an elegant appearance.
What Shoelaces Are Best? Flat vs. Round Shoelaces
For dress shoes, it is essential to have quality shoelaces made of waxed cotton because cheap, thick, and coarse shoelaces simply look out of place on an elegant pair of dress shoes. When it comes to the length of your shoelaces, 80cm or 31.5 inches is the sweet spot as it will allow for the greatest range of eyelets from two to six pairs.
Round Shoelaces
The most formal shoelaces for Oxford shoes are round, thin, and made of waxed cotton. Typically speaking, the thinner your laces are the better the quality. This is because the shoelaces still need to perform well, and not rip when you pull on them to tie a knot. If they are thin and sturdy, that’s the sign of a high-quality round shoe lace.
Flat Shoelaces
An alternative for dress shoes is to go with flat thin dress shoe laces. Naturally, they are a little wider than round laces, thus creating a different overall aesthetic. The benefit of flat laces is the slimmer profile they have when your shoe is viewed from the side. While some may not worry about such things, a true sartorialist likes to consider all the minute details!
Why Waxed Laces?
You want your shoelaces to have a wax coating for a few reasons. Primarily, the wax coating prevents friction and allows the laces to pass through the shoe’s eyelets with ease. This performs a secondary function by reducing premature wear to your shoelaces, as the wax stops excess fibers from shedding. Finally, the wax adds a little shine to the laces, which smartens the look of any dress shoe nicely.
Quality Shoelaces in a Rainbow of Colors
After years of struggling to find high-quality shoelaces in a range of sartorial colors, we decided to make our own. You’ll find a wide range of colors and styles in our shop, from classic round and flat shoelaces to matching color palettes in longer laces for your boots, too.
All of our dress shoe shoelaces are made in Italy, of long staple, waxed cotton, and should last well under regular use. Simply put, this is the most comprehensive selection of quality dress shoe laces you will find online.
Dress Boot Laces
Generally, boot laces are thick, robust, and made for work boots, and the selection of shoelaces for dress boots such as the Balmoral boot is very limited.
Just like your dress shoes, you’ll want your dress boot laces to be both high-quality and elegant. We’ve found a length of 120cm or 47 and a quarter inch are perfect to create the most stylish aesthetic. If you have boots with fewer pairs of eyelets, like chukka boots, you could go with regular dress shoe laces.
Evening Shoe Laces
When wearing a tuxedo or tailcoat, most men today wear a patent leather oxford shoe with ordinary cotton shoe laces, whereas elegant gentlemen during the golden age of style would only wear opera pumps or Oxfords with flat silk shoe laces for evening wear.
There is sound reasoning behind this, as the wide, flat shoe laces will create a little bow that mirrors the elegant bow tie worn around your neck. As there are many different bow tie fabrics to choose from, it’s imperative you match your shoelaces. From silk satin to grosgrain, faille to barathea, and even velvet, Fort Belvedere ensures your evening wear is a step above the rest.
Do you have a favorite shoelace style, or a favorite method of lacing? Let us know in the comments!